Muharram in Sau Quarter Korangi area Karachi

In Sau Quarter, black-clad residents were gathering at the Bara Alam mosque for a Majlis (gathering). Inside, people listened to stories of the martyrdom of Imam Hussein and his followers at the Battle of Karbala (680 CE). Many were moved to tears. Meanwhile, large numbers of police and rangers stood guard outside.

Sau Quarter (Hundred Quarters) is located in the heart of Korangi, a sprawling industrial district in the east of Karachi, and is home to small Shia community. During Ayub Khan’s era, 100 plots of government land in the area were distributed to poor migrants from India; it is from this act that the community derives its name.

The head of the local religious committee, Imran Haider Naqvi, said that till date Sau Quarter had been spared sectarian violence that has affected other locales. Nevertheless, he was grateful for the heavy security presence. ‘The Sindh govt has been very helpful. They are aware of the dates on which we have Majlises and make sure to provide security. Young men from the community also help out.’

According to Naqvi, whose family has organised Majlises in the area ‘since Sau Quarter was populated,’ local residents have always been involved all aspects of Muharram activities. ‘We are a close-knit community. The residents were all born here, they got married and had their kids here. So we organize all Muharram events together,’ said Naqvi.

‘The young men help set up fountains, guide attendees, clean the area and prepare for the Majlis,’ Naqvi said. Scores of young men in black Shalwar Kameez could be seen running around performing errands, as well as being in the forefront of all mourning activities.

The Majlis format at Sau Quarter remains the same every year. It is divided into four sections, beginning with the recital of a Marsia, an elegiac poem. Then there is salaam, or paying of respects. After that there is a speech by an Alim (religious scholar). The Majlis concludes with the recitals of Nauha, a sub-section of Marsia in which participants express their sorrow at the loss while ritualistically beating their chests.   

The day’s Majlis was lent a special air by the presence of the renowned Marsia Khuan (reciter) Nasir Hussain Zaidi, who has been performing at Majlises and other religious events for nearly 30 years.  Every Muharram he performs at Majlises across Karachi till Ashura, after which he travels overseas to perform for the subcontinental Muslim diaspora.

The recital of Marsias during Muharram is a long-running tradition in Zaidi’s family. ‘My grandmother used to recite Marsias for small Majlises in Jaipur (India). My mother and sisters continued the tradition after moving to Pakistan after Partition. I got my start the same way.’

Zaidi said he had the opportunity to be a playback singer, but he decided to stick to reciting Marsias because there was greater respect for the profession and because he felt he was transmitting an important message. ‘Imam Hussein’s example teaches us how to differentiate been right and wrong. It shows us how to be patient in the face of adversity. Most importantly it tells us that we can stand up against injustice, whatever the circumstances and whatever the age.’

But how is the Marsia’s message any different from that transmitted by the Alim in his Tuqreer (speech)? ‘The Alim and I are telling the same story, but through different methods. Those who like to listen to speech and discussion can learn from the Alim, while those more attuned to verse can understand through my recital.’

When the Alim finished his address to the gathering, Zaidi took the stage and recited a Nauha to conclude the Majlis. As the recital progressed there was increasing emotion in his voice, which was matched by the mounting intensity with which the young men near him performed Maatham and chanted ‘Ya Hussain.’ When the Nauha was over the men headed to the exit, wiping away their tears until their return the following day.